Oily Skin: Does It Need A Moisturiser?
Guys who struggle with oily skin often feel a moisturiser will just make it worse. The truth is, a moisturiser is one of the most important skincare tools for oily skin. Read on to find out why.
Mar 23, 2023
- How do I know if I have oily skin
- What are the causes of men's oily skin?
- Does oily skin really need a moisturiser?
- What type of moisturiser is best for oily skin?
- If I have oily skin which ingredients should I avoid?
- Other solutions for oily skin
The most common misconception about oily skin is that we don’t need to use a moisturiser, and if we do use a moisturiser on oily skin it will only make it worse. This is not true! Having oily skin does not mean your skin is lacking moisture it is quite the opposite and it is a sign that we need to balance the oil and moisture in our skin.
Quite often people think when they see their skin is oily, that it is over-hydrated, and moisturising will only make it worse. Hydration and oil are two different things. The natural oil in our skin is known as sebum, which is created in the sebaceous glands and is extremely valuable in our skin’s health. It is used as a lubricant for our skin cells and it also helps maintain the barrier function in our epidermis. Skin hydration is to do with water that is absorbed into the skin which helps to keep it plump and retain elasticity. The key thing is to find a balance between these too.
There are many causes of oily skin, but it typically becomes oily when our skin is dehydrated. Sounds mad right? But when there isn’t enough moisture in our skin, the sebaceous glands go into overdrive and produce sebum to protect the skin. The overproduction of oil is what then causes spots, blemishes, and acne. To prevent this from occurring, we need to replace the moisture and one of the best ways to do this is to use a face moisturiser.
How do I know if I have oily skin?
We all have different skin types but having oily skin means you produce higher-than-average amounts of oil. You will notice your skin is oily when you look in the mirror and notice a sheen on the skin. It’s most likely you will also see large pores in your t-zone which is the area across your forehead and down the bridge of your nose.
People with an oily skin type will often experience spots and blemishes, and the oil will reappear after cleansing the skin.
What are the causes of men’s oily skin?
Aside from dehydration, the other causes of oily skin can be broken down into health, environmental, and genetic factors.
For those of us who continually experience oily skin, it can be down to the genes we’ve inherited from our parents (cheers Mum and Dad…) but before we start throwing shade, it’s not entirely a bad thing as we need sebum in our skin. It can also be down to ethnicity too - research has shown that people with darker skin have larger pores (leading to a higher rate of sebum excretion) than lighter skin. (source)
Hormones can play serious mischief in the amount of sebum we produce in the body. Let’s not forget those awkward years of all our lives during puberty, when our moods are all over the place and our skin decides to wreak havoc! Androgens (sex hormones) play a role in our reproductive health and as they are associated with the stimulation of the production of sebum, it explains why we experience spots and acne in our teenage years. Hormone imbalances can also be caused by illnesses and medication, which can also affect our sebum levels.
Health factors include diet and stress. If your daily diet includes large amounts of sugar and carbohydrates, it can lead to an increase in growth hormones and in turn the production of sebum. A bad diet can also contribute to the build up of toxins in the body; creating a lovely environment for bacteria to grow.
There have been studies into the effects of stress on acne, including the effect of the stress-related hormone 'corticotropin' and how it can bind to the sebaceous gland and cause an increase in sebum production. (source)
The wrong skincare can also attribute to your skin being oily. Using products that are too rich and not suited to your skin type will only heighten your concern.
How to manage oily skin
Once you understand your skin type, it is much easier to find products that will suit your skin.
The important thing is to find a skincare routine which you can stick to. Once you find the products which will balance out the oil levels in the skin, it’s important to keep using those products. Oily skin needs to be cleansed, hydrated, and nourished - and twice a day.
Keeping on top of your skincare routine will help to prevent signs of acne which can be a result of having oily skin.
Does oily skin really need a moisturiser?
Yes, absolutely. It’s very easy, and common, to think we need to cut out a moisturiser from our grooming routine to prevent more oil from being added to our skin. However, as oily skin occurs when our skin is dehydrated, a moisturiser is one of the most important tools we can use to rehydrate our skin.
When it comes to skincare, the important thing is not to try to remove all the oil from our skin. We need to prevent the accumulation of oil which causes blocked pores, but also not strip our skin of nutritional oil. Spots, blemishes, and acne can go hand in hand with oily skin, but that doesn’t mean anti-acne products (including topical retinoids) will benefit oily skin as they can dry it out.
Without a moisturiser, our skin can become extremely dehydrated and only cause more issues. Denying the skin moisture can bring about premature signs of ageing, red patches, and flaking of the skin. It can also cause the vicious cycle of more oil being produced as a reaction to dehydration.
For those of us with oily skin, we need to find a moisturiser which contains ingredients which will support our skin type.
So, don’t forget to continue to moisturise - morning and night!
What type of moisturiser is best for oily skin?
As with most skincare products, different ingredients and types of products will suit some people and not others. We all have our own skin type and so all our skin will react differently.
Generally speaking, a lightweight and water-based moisturiser is more likely to be suitable for oily skin. Rich and heavy moisturisers contain larger molecules which, with a layer of oil on your skin, means the product is less easily absorbed into the skin. A heavy moisturiser can also leave a film on the skin which means oil cannot escape the pores; leading to the build-up of product and oil.
If a moisturiser is leaving your skin feeling sticky or tacky, and with a heavy shine on the skin, it’s likely it’s not being absorbed in the skin. This type of product is not advisable for oily skin. The key is to find a moisturiser which will add hydration to the skin, but not additional oil which will sit on the surface.
When it comes to a skin concern, it’s best to use products that are targeted for that concern. Look out for moisturisers which are ‘non-comedogenic’: this means they are designed not to clog pores. A comedone is the technical term for a white or blackhead spot which forms when dead skin cells, bacteria, or oil accumulate in the pores. Non-comedogenic moisturisers are formulated to minimise the likelihood of comedones, and are typically made up of light oils and water-based ingredients.
For oily skin, avoid moisturisers which contain occlusive emollients. This type of moisturiser will form a hydrophobic film on the skin, preventing water from escaping from the skin. They work well for dry skin, however, they can be very heavy on oily skin. Examples of occlusive emollients are lanolin, squalene, paraffin, petroleum jelly, cocoa butter, shea butter, and beeswax.
Moisturiser ingredients to look out for oily skin
Below are some examples of specific skincare ingredients which can benefit oily skin.
• Salicylic Acid (BHA) - This is a multi-tasking ingredient. It is also known as Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) and its natural form is found in the bark of a willow tree. It is also made synthetically in skincare. It is oil soluble and can get deep into the skin through the lipid barrier, to break down excess sebum and remove dead skin cells and bacteria. A great example of a moisturiser containing salicylic acid is Heath’s Oil Control Moisturiser.
• Hyaluronic Acid (HA) - Hyaluronic acid is typically advised for dry skin, however, it works for all skin types. We naturally produce hyaluronic acid in our bodies and it works to keep our skin hydrated. In a moisturiser, hyaluronic acid works to replace lost moisture in the skin and it also helps to gently exfoliate the skin. Jack Black’s Overnight Repair Moisturiser is ideal for hydrating your skin whilst you sleep, and it’s perfect for oily skin as it is fragrance and oil-free.
• Glycolic Acid (AHA) - You can find glycolic acid in cleansers, masks, serums, and moisturisers. Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) which acts as a humectant (it draws water to the skin) in skincare. It’s a great men’s skincare ingredient for oily skin as it helps to hydrate the skin without it feeling greasy. Glycolic acid works by breaking down the ‘glue’ that holds dead skin cells together, which makes it easier for them to be removed.
The difference between water-based and oil-based moisturisers.
The efficacy of a water-based moisturiser in comparison to an oil-based moisturiser on oily skin is often debated but again, it comes down to how your skin works with certain products.
The general consensus is that a water-based moisturiser can be more suited to oily skin because it can be more easily absorbed and doesn’t sit on the surface of the skin. You can identify a water-based moisturiser by water being the top ingredient in the ingredients list. Water-based moisturisers tend to be light and less likely to cause skin irritations. This type of moisturiser contains humectants, such as hyaluronic acid, which draw water from the surrounding environment and deeper levels of the skin.
Oil-based moisturisers are heavier, and thicker, than water-based moisturisers and are often used for dry skin. It’s not to say they won’t hydrate oily skin, but it’s wise to be aware of the ingredients. Oil-based moisturisers contain emollients which help to trap water in the skin. If too heavy, it can attribute to pores becoming clogged.
The most visible difference between a water-based and oil-based moisturiser is the texture.
If I have oily skin, which ingredients should I avoid?
There are certain ingredients in skincare that you might want to avoid as they can exacerbate oil production and cause breakouts. If you are unsure about the ingredients in your skincare, make sure you do some research and/or reach out to a dermatologist.
• Alcohol - Some men’s skincare brands include ‘simple alcohols’ (e.g SD Alcohol 40, denatured alcohol, and ethanol) in their products to produce that refreshing feeling. They are often found in toners and gel-formulated moisturisers. Although it might feel nice on the skin, these types of alcohol can be extremely drying for the skin and can strip the skin of beneficial natural oils. There are, however, alcohols which are used to aid the skin, such as propylene glycol (which works as a humectant and attracts water to the skin) and fatty alcohol (e.g cetyl) derived from coconut (which is often used to thicken products).
• Fragrance - Skincare brands use both natural and synthetic ingredients to make their products smell pleasant. If your skin is sensitive, you may find that these fragrances can easily irritate the skin - the same goes for oily skin. There is a continual debate as to whether scented products are bad for your skin, and we won’t dive in right here. However, generally, it is advised that if you suffer from breakouts avoid fragrance, as the molecules can irritate the skin. Alcohol within fragrance can also be extremely drying.
• Mineral oil - Although this is classified as a safe ingredient, it is derived from petroleum and has become a rather controversial ingredient in skincare. Generally, dermatologists recommend mineral oil moisturiser for people who suffer from dry skin, as it helps to lock in moisture. However, it is not advised for oily and acne-prone skin. Mineral oil can sit on the skin and prevent the skin from ‘breathing’.
Other solutions for oily skin
• Water - One of the easiest and quickest ways to hydrate your body and skin is by drinking large amounts of water. Water is so important for maintaining the health of our skin. The skin stays hydrated by pulling fluid from the blood flowing through our skin. Drinking water also helps to flush out toxins travelling around our bodies.
• Cleansing - Make sure you continue to cleanse your skin daily. This will help to remove any bacteria that can grow on the skin from the build-up of oil. Just make sure you use a face cleanser which is suited for oily skin. We recommend Auden Gycolic Clarifying Face Cleanser which helps to regulate the production of oil, leaves skin feeling refreshed and offers a matte finish.
• Exfoliate - Removing the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin can prevent a build-up which can cause skin irritation and spots. It also literally makes space for products to be more efficiently absorbed into the skin. You don’t need to exfoliate every day, as this can remove natural oil from the skin and dry it out. We recommend exfoliating twice a week.
• Clean your grooming tools - If you use a flannel, sponge, or other facial cleansing tools, make sure you clean it regularly to get rid of any bacteria which can be transferred onto the skin. The same goes if you use men’s makeup brushes: always wash them thoroughly after use.
• Face masks - Using a men’s face mask which contains clay, or charcoal, can help to draw out oil from the skin. This is a good way to detox the skin and remove any impurities. Try using a mask once a week and see how your skin reacts. If the product dried out your skin, it might be too harsh for your skin. Shakeup Cosmetics Purifying Clay Mask is easy to apply and great for detoxing and brightening the skin.
• Toner - Adding a toner to your skincare routine can help to balance the pH levels in your skin, as well as balancing the level of oil in the skin. Just be aware if it contains a strong alcohol.
• Green tea - Try adding some men’s skincare products into your grooming routine which contain green tea. Green tea is packed full of a polyphenol (naturally occurring plant compound) called epigallocatechin gallate which is known to repair the skin, as well as help to remove excess oil. Devonine’s Face Cleanser contains green tea extract which effectively removes impurities but is also gentle on the skin.
• Dermatologist - If you’re struggling with oily skin, don’t forget you can speak to a dermatologist who will be able to advise you on how to manage it effectively.
Read more from The Grooming Journal by Humanery
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