A leading pharmacist answers the most commonly asked questions about Vitamin C-based skincare

About Parisa Bahramian (Mpharm)
Parisa is a full Member of the Royal Pharmaceutical Society, qualifying at Brighton University. She is a Director and Co-Founder of Estetica Clinics and has combined her pharmaceutical expertise with facial aesthetics and a desire to be at the forefront of any relevant cosmetic developments.

There is a lot of buzz around Vitamin C-based skincare, and we often get asked questions about how to incorporate this incredible ingredient into a daily skincare routine. Here are some high-level facts that you may not already know:

• Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that offers numerous benefits to the skin.
  
  One of its primary functions is to neutralize free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can cause damage to the skin cells and lead to premature ageing. (source)
• Vitamin C also helps to stimulate the production of collagen, a protein that gives the skin its elasticity and firmness.
  
  As we age, the production of collagen naturally decreases, leading to fine lines, and wrinkles and the skin becomes less firm in its appearance. By promoting collagen synthesis, Vitamin C can help to reduce the signs of ageing and improve the overall appearance of the skin. (source)

We asked Parisa Bahramian some of the most commonly asked questions about Vitamin C-based skincare, and here is what she had to say.

What is the best form of vitamin C for skincare? How does one get started with Vitamin C-based skincare?

Generally, L-ascorbic acid is considered to be the most potent and effective form of vitamin C. L-ascorbic acid is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C that is easily absorbed by the skin, and that is why most skincare products with Vitamin C use this form.

To get started with Vitamin C-based skincare, I advise my patients to keep the following steps in mind:

• Choose a Vitamin C-based skincare product that contains L-ascorbic acid. Look for products with a concentration of 10-20% vitamin C for visible results. Remember, it takes consistency and proper usage of the product for at least 3-4 weeks before you start to notice a change in your skin.
• Start by using the product once a day, preferably in the morning, after cleansing. If you also use a toner after washing your skin, you can use your Vitamin C-based product after toning as well.
• Apply a small amount of the product to the face and neck, avoiding the eye area.
• Gently massage the product into the skin until it is fully absorbed.
• Over time, you can gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin becomes accustomed to the product.

That said, it’s important to note that some people may experience mild irritation or redness when first starting to use a Vitamin C-based product. If this occurs, reduce the frequency of use or switch to a product with a lower concentration of Vitamin C.

And if you still experience problems, consult your doctor.

How often should you use a Vitamin C serum? Which brands of Vitamin C-based serum on the Humanery platform would you recommend?

The frequency of use of a Vitamin C serum can vary depending on each individual's skin type and the concentration of Vitamin C in the product. Generally, we recommended using a vitamin C serum only once daily, preferably in the morning. If you have sensitive skin, you may want to start by using the serum every other day and gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin gets used to the Vitamin C serum.

Overall, it's important to choose a high-quality vitamin C serum from a reputable brand and to follow the instructions for use carefully to get the best results. If you are not sure about the best solution for yourself, consult with a dermatologist.

I would recommend the following 3 products found on the Humanery platform:

Dr David Jack’s Morning Gel Face Serum - it has stabilized 10% L-ascorbic acid, a natural form of Vitamin C. The serum is light and helps the skin feel firm and healthy almost instantly.

Dr. David Jack Good Morning Gel Face Serum

£89.00

The SBTRCT Vitamin C Booster - I am a fan of solid skincare as it helps retain more active ingredients, and they’re also kinder to the planet. You just have to warm the product in between your fingers and then apply it to your skin just like you would any other serum.

SBTRCT Vitamin C Booster

£30.00

The Vitamin C Serum in Oil by Skin Diligent - it’s usually difficult to find Vitamin C serums made with natural botanical oils, and Skin Diligent has done a really good job with this one. It’s also light and gets absorbed quickly by the skin, which makes it an ideal companion for those men who tend to have dry skin.

Skin Diligent Vitamin C Serum in Oil

£55.00

We often hear that Vitamin C-based skincare can help people when they get spots and pigmentation on their skin. How does Vitamin C help with hyperpigmentation?

I often recommend Vitamin C to patients who are concerned about hyperpigmentation. Hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition that occurs when there is an overproduction of melanin, the pigment that gives our skin its colour. This can result in the formation of dark spots, patches, or uneven skin tone.

The antioxidant properties of Vitamin C have been shown to help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation by reducing the production of excess melanin. When applied topically, Vitamin C works by blocking the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for producing melanin.

And since Vitamin C also helps with stimulating collagen synthesis, the overall skin texture and look also tends to look healthier.Here’s a general note on the use of Vitamin C to help with treating hyperpigmentation: use the product consistently over time, as it can take several weeks or even months to see noticeable improvements in hyperpigmentation.

As always, consult with a dermatologist to determine the best course of treatment for your individual skin concerns and needs.

What are the common side effects of using vitamin C on the skin?

Generally speaking, the side effects of using vitamin C on the skin tend to be mild and easily manageable. But, it's important to listen to your skin and adjust your routine as needed to ensure the best results.

Some commonly noted side effects are:

• Irritation: Some people may experience mild irritation, redness, or stinging when using Vitamin C on the skin. This is more likely to occur in people with sensitive skin or those who are using a product with a high concentration of Vitamin C.
• Dryness: Vitamin C can have a slightly drying effect on the skin, which may cause flakiness or dry patches.
• Allergic reactions: In rare cases, some people may experience an allergic reaction to vitamin C, which can cause itching, hives, or swelling.

If you experience any of these side effects when using a vitamin C-based product, there are several things you can do to alleviate them:

1. Reduce the frequency of use: If you are experiencing irritation or dryness, try using the product less frequently or diluting it with a small amount of water before applying it to the skin.

2. Use a lower concentration: If you are using a product with a high concentration of vitamin C, you may want to switch to a product with a lower concentration to see if that reduces the side effects.

3. Apply to damp skin: Vitamin C is more easily absorbed by damp skin, so try applying the product immediately after cleansing or spritzing your face with a hydrating mist.

4. Consult with a dermatologist: If you are experiencing persistent or severe side effects, it's important to consult with a dermatologist, who can recommend alternative products or treatments.

Here’s another question we get asked commonly: Can Vitamin C be used with Retinol?

Yes, Vitamin C can be used with retinol (which is a derivative form of Vitamin A).

In fact, these two ingredients can work together to provide a powerful anti-ageing and skin-brightening effect. But, it's important to use them correctly to avoid any potential irritation or adverse effects.

Start by introducing these ingredients slowly and carefully, as they can both be irritating to the skin, especially when used in high concentrations. If you're new to using vitamin C and retinol together, start by using them on alternate nights and be measured in increasing frequency as your skin gets used to this new routine.

I recommend using the following products if you’re looking to start a skincare regime incorporating both Vitamin C and Retinol:

The Anti-Fatigue Gel Face Serum by Fort Men’s Skincare - this incredible product has both Vitamin C and Retinol. If you’re a veteran of a daily skincare regime, it might be worth trying this product.

Fort Anti-Fatigue Face Moisturiser for Men

£29.00

The Ra. Men's Care Revive Face Serum - this one has both ingredients and has a number of positive reviews to back up what other people think.

Ra. Men's Care Revive Face Serum

£16.99

Finally, if you’re looking to introduce both ingredients more gradually, use the Auden Overtime Vitamin C Moisturiser as your morning moisturizer and the Clear Skin Days Retinol Recovery Serum at night. This should help you take your first step towards combining both ingredients in a more measured way.

Auden Overtime Vitamin C Moisturiser

£50.00

But here’s an important note: ​​If you experience any irritation or discomfort when using vitamin C and retinol together, stop using the products immediately and consult with a dermatologist for personalized advice.

Finally, are there any other benefits of Vitamin C-based skincare products for men that we should be aware of?

Yes, there is emerging evidence that Vitamin C can have a protective effect against UV-induced damage to the skin. While it is not a substitute for sunscreen, incorporating Vitamin C into your skincare routine can help to enhance the effectiveness of your sun protection and reduce the risk of sun damage. As we know, sun damage is one of the most common causes of faster skin ageing (wrinkles), hyperpigmentation and, in the most extreme cases, skin cancer (which, by the way, is one of the most common forms of cancer in the US and UK.

That’s why I am quite partial towards Vitamin C-based skincare - it’s packed with benefits, and if you can gradually introduce this to your skincare routine, the benefits are worthwhile.